My late father used to say after he turned 70 that it was time for him to stop reading to reflect on everything he had read. I feel the same now having worked hard these last few days absorbing a shedload of interesting history, religion and ancient architecture. My head feels full. I am glad that today is the last day of sightseeing.
We treated ourselves to a swim and a bit of lie-in on the poolside loungers. After a breakfast of coconut roti with sambal, eggs and fresh tropical fruits washed down with flavoursome Ceylon tea, we were ready for the UNESCO registered world heritage site of the tabletop rock mountain of Sigiriya built by King Kashyapa in the 5th century. Our driver had warned us that yesterday’s gruesome climb up to the rock cave temple at Dambolla was nothing compared to what lie in store for us at Sigiriya. My stented heart beat that much faster listening to him.

Looking up at the 180m high rock fortress with 2000 steps filled me with dread. Noting the average age of people attempting the climb made me sweat. I couldn’t find many of my vintage. Strange and morbid thoughts crossed my mind – How would I be carried down the narrow steps if I collapsed? Are there helicopters for medical evacuation? We had turned down several guides and were doing this on our own. So, no local knowledge or help either.

Then I remembered my own advice to a young student at Sheffield University in the mid 90s where I was a mature MSc student. He used to worry so much during exams that despite being very clever, he invariably failed. I had counselled him,
“What’s the worst that could happen to you?”
After he responded with various scenarios including failing the course, his father stopping funding, he being jobless for ever and so on, I said to him,
“No. The worst thing that could happen is you could die.”
I don’t know whether that advice worked but he stopped talking to me after that.
So now it was time for me to try my own medicine. Yes, I could die. So what, I said to myself without a lot of conviction. And it did feel like that a quarter of the way up as I panted like a dog and my head spun. Then it settled down. Halfway up at the plateau with the giant lion paws, I felt refreshed and the breathing became normal. The fear of death had disappeared and was replaced with the vigour of youth.

The caressing breeze and delightful panaromic views, the distant white statue of the Buddha standing out amidst the verdant hills, terraced gardens with ingeniously engineered water features and concealed interconnecting conduits, soothed my fears which seemed insignificant in the midst of all this grandeur.
We spent a lot of time at the summit admiring the ruins of palaces and gouged out reservoirs with breathtaking 360 degree views of the lush vegetation all around and the water gardens below. We were glad to have visited the dedicated museum before we embarked on the ascent. It gave us a better appreciation of what we saw. To add to the drama, a monkey snatched a slab of chocolate from Raju’s bag.


Going down was a lot easier than going up and we returned to the car, but not before grabbing a few beers – no, just joking. We did get some fresh musambi juice on the way down. By dusk, we arrived at our final stop in Sri Lanka – a beach resort north of Colombo where we said goodbye to our wonderful driver and companion for the trip, Buddhika Sadaruwan.
I look forward to some deep relaxation for the next two days. But, Raju is already talking about the lagoons of Negombo only a few kilometres from the resort! As a wise Indian mechanic on one of my ships said, “There is no rest for man or ox.”































